We left La Grande Motte on Thursday at 11:30 am– later than we had hoped, but leaving land takes lots of time. First, we had to fill up with fuel, which is not as simple as driving to the nearest gas station to “pay at the pump”. We had to leave our berth (which we already explained is no small feat), maneuver along rows of other boats, and circle around so that our starboard side (right side) was parallel to the dock. The whole process took about an hour.
Next, we had to “check out” of the marina and get some form of documentation that we are leaving/have left France so that our 90-day Schengen clock is paused. Several days earlier we went to the airport to see if they could give us an “exit stamp”, but they said only if we were flying out of the country – they couldn’t help if we were sailing out….
So off we go – on foot- to the Capitaniere – a 20 minute walk each way. At the Capitaniere’s office, we explained that we’re leaving and need something that shows the date we left the marina. But… the Capitaniere doesn’t have a stamp. In fact, no one seems to know how non-EU boat crews are supposed to show they have “exited” the country. Finally, after some discussion, the harbor master “stamped” an “export” form from Outremer (our boat builder). Who knows whether immigration will accept this, but it’s all we have. After stopping to say our goodbyes to all the wonderful people we met and who worked on our boat – we “threw off the bow lines” and headed out.
We had hoped to sail to Marseille (60 nautical miles), but since we left so late, we couldn’t make it there with enough daylight to find a safe anchorage. So we stopped about 15 miles short of Marseille at a less than scenic location – the Gulfe de Fos. But it allowed us to get a good night’s sleep, so it served the purpose. According to the cruising guide, it’s one of the “largest petrochemical installations on the French Mediterranean coast, if not all of France”. We passed this tanker (and others like it) on our way in.
The next morning, we set off towards Marseille (15 NM) to inch our way East and wait for the right wind. But never made to Marseille, because the forecast predicted good wind to leave the next day (Saturday, June 5th) so we anchored in Baie du Grand Souffre to wait.
Knowing this was our last day to walk on terra ferma for at least 6 days, we took the dinghy to shore for a walk. There was no place to “park” or tie up the dinghy which meant we took turns taking each other to the beach.
We could only motor in so far before we came to a “no-engine” zone. Past that point, we had to row – yes, by hand, the old-fashioned way. The folks on the beach were quite amused by our efforts. The look on their faces as we rowed our way in, and then hopped into the water and walked the last 5 feet, was priceless. Astonishment – as if they had seen an alien… I would have taken a picture of their faces but thought that would be rude.
One last task… Anthony wanted to clean the boat hull to help us sail faster. Yes, over time, that much weed/algae growth on the bottom of the boat really does affect speed which can add time over long passages. So he donned his wetsuit, grabbed a scrub brush and suction cup to hold him in place and got after it. It’s actually quite exhausting so he got in a good workout. Now we should sail about .3 Knts faster! It all adds up and we make the leap tomorrow (June 5th)!
PS: Posted on June 8th as we make our way along the north coast of Sicily (about ½ way). Close enough to land for internet access (3 bars) – as long as Anthony holds his phone up high!
Really enjoying the posts, and I have been tracking you guys all day via the vessel finder site! Fascinating seeing all of the traffic out there. For those of you that haven’t searched yet, here is Moxie on Vessel Finder: https://www.vesselfinder.com/?mmsi=368190610
Safe journey, and can’t wait to see more!!
Thanks for following along – and for reposting the link!
Watched you pass Messina (via Vessel Finder) not too long ago and wish you safe sailing. (Just seeing or hearing the word “Moxie” brings instant images of Moxie and Mae tussling with each other. Priceless memories.)
Hi Dave – Thanks for keeping a “watchful” on us! The advances in technology are amazing!
I was a little behind and just got caught up. What a treat to read all your posts! You are a great story teller. You crack me up 🤣 You guys are two tough cookies 💪🏻 It takes a lot of determination and perseverance to
Do what you are doing. I’m thrilled to just be reading about your adventures. Good luck sailing to Croatia. That’s one of our favorite places.
I Can’t wait to read your next post.
It is SO hot here 🥵 and we are headed to Vegas this weekend where it will be 110! 😬 we survived Brooke’s graduation and family visiting. Everything was wonderful. It all
Went by so fast. We now have a 2nd Lieutenant staying with us for a little while
Before she heads out on her 60 day adventures. She will report to Fort Meade on July 29th!
Safe travels! 🙏🏻
Congrats to Brooke! You and Danny must be so proud! Enjoy Vegas – hope the air conditioners are all working!
Wow! What an adventure, you two need to make a reality show out of this! I love you all
Very much!
Thanks for thinking of us Susan!
Can’t believe the day has finally come when you’re back at sea again. How flipping exciting and I’m so chuffed for you guys.
Not sure what your route is and wonder if you’re planning to round the Cape at some point? Would be great to chat to you if you’re in the area.
Take it easy, safe travels and have fun.
Much love from us all,
Thanks Gary. No plans yet to round the Cape again…but who knows!